Whenever I wanted to clean the bike up it was always a pain to have to unbolt the bags off the supports so I could clean in behind them. I thought of these pins and tried them out. Turns out they work great and it’s now a snap to remove the bags for cleaning or for taking them inside while traveling.
WildFred gives his tips on how to install a Barnett Clutch and upgraded oil pump drive shaft
The process of adjusting our valves is not that hard if you understand what is going on and why we are doing it this way. Yes we have hydraulic valves and it’s said “hydraulics’ need no adjustments. But, we have 2 valves per intake and exhaust ports. When we have a noisy valve train, part of the problem could be that the valves of any one intake or exhaust port could have one or more valves opening and closing at different times. The excessive tolerances when the valves are out of adjustment create some of this excessive noise.
Paul Bertolino fills you in on how to make your own driver’s backrest for a Yamaha Road Star
Cleaning up the left hand side of the Road Star engine can be done by relocating the fuel pump up underneath the fuel tank.
Charging problems can drive you up the wall. Adding to this is the fact that there seems to be no easy way for us simpleton’s to verify that the Regulator/Rectifier is good or faulty. This primer goes along that line, as does the Yamaha Service Manual. The Service Manual leaves some to be desired and I hope I’ve explained it a bit further so you can successfully troubleshoot your charging circuit.
Well I finally got sick of the headlight rattle last week because for me it is too noticeable at 100kmh in 5th gear which is cruising speed for me. It also rattles at a certain RPM in all other gears to which was annoying. At a guess I would say somewhere around the 1500 to 2000 rpm mark but I can’t be sure. I know some of you have had luck with wrapping the wires inside the headlight with various things but my wires are already enclosed in rubber, so this is what I did.
RoadStarMagazine.com accepts no responsibility for the accuracy of these Garage Tips and they are only provided as a resource reference. Any type of modification or service work on your Road Star should always be performed by a professional mechanic. If performed incorrectly, some of these Garage Tips may endanger the safety of you and others on your Road Star and possibly invalidate your manufacturers warranty. The majority of these Garage Tips are not official manufacturers instructions and have been accumulated by Road Star enthusiasts from around the world.
By Toasty aka AussieGlenn
I have had the headlight apart once before and noticed the metal lips that protrude from the main housing and was thinking maybe I could get some rubber and stick it along those areas and deaden the sound. I actually bought some rubber that had a back part that peeled off so it was self adhesive. I didn’t want any problems getting the headlight back on so I got the thinnest I could find which was 1.6cm (about 1/2 an inch).
When I got home I wanted to see if I could get the headlight to rattle without actually having to ride the bike somewhere so I wasn’t pulling it apart and putting it back together and saddling up continuously if it didn’t work. Sure enough if I stood beside the bike and very slowly applied the throttle I could get the headlight to rattle… Not only that I could get it to SHAKE RATTLE AND ROLL!! Geesh, have any of you guys done this What happens at around the 1500 to 2000 rpm mark is the headlight starts whipping back and forth in it’s mount like crazy! No wonder this bastard rattles! Under or over that mark and the headlight smoothes out, but you get it at that right point and the headlight becomes a blur!
So any ways I pulled the headlight apart and placed the self adhesive rubber on the metal bits that stick out from the main headlight housing and put it all back together. No good, DAMMIT! So I start trying to think logically about the problem (me logical, now THAT’S a laugh).
The headlight only has two bolts that hold the front headlight onto the actual housing. These bolts are at 4 and 8 o’clock. There is no bolt at 12 o’clock though. From the riding position the headlight whips up and done as if it was nodding. So I am thinking it has to be at the top of the headlight where there is no bolt.
After having another look at the housing I notice at the top there are two metal almost hook like things coming out from it that the headlight would hook over to go into position (have a look and you will see what I mean) Now these didn’t look like they would fit all that snugly and I thought this could be where the rattle was coming from as the headlight does it’s boogie.
I got some more of the rubber and squashed it down into the two metal lips and put the headlight back on. No more rattle for Glenn!! I have since done about 150 miles and it has not returned so this MAY have done it. No doubt the rubber will compress with time so I might look at something thicker at a later date but this will do for now.
My main concern now is that the headlight is still vibrating like crazy in that small window of RPMS. It concerns me because of the cruising speed, even though it doesn’t rattle any more it is still shaking and that can’t be good. What we need is someone to fabricate a bracket to strengthen it.
But anyway, there is what I did.
From: Big Dan (REACHFORSTAR)
There are several ways..I used cork. The 1/4 inch dot stick ons that you buy at the 5& 10 to put on the bottom of vases and stuff to protect furniture. Stick them on the rim they are adhesive and trim them even with the edge. I also put some bubble wrap around my wires. It worked.
“Big Dan” -‘StarRider’