Cleaning up the left hand side of the Road Star engine can be done by relocating the fuel pump up underneath the fuel tank.
Currently we have a bit of a back log with the Serious Customs submissions, so to clear the pile on my desk a little I thought it was time to showcase Bruce Roth’s Supercharged Road Star. That’s right, Bruce’s bike has a Magnacharger Supercharger that assists his Road Star in punching out over 80hp!
Another review for you today! Introducing Alien Faces Custom Speedo Faces for Your Road Star. This review has been a little while coming, but it is here now and I think it has been worth the wait. These things are just awesome and can make a real difference to an otherwise plain area of your bike.
It’s been a little while since I have posted a Serious Custom so I thought I would get my act together and upload one from the many I have backlogged waiting patiently to be published. So what we have for you today is Sam Todd’s Custom Road Star, “Back In Black” which is also the first Privately owned Serious Custom to be featured on RoadStarMagazine.com. Unless you happen to live in Todd’s neck of the woods, RoadStarMagazine.com is about the only other place you will see this great machine as Sam doesn’t have a website at this point. So naturally we’re more than happy to host his bike for him here for the entire world to see!
Charging problems can drive you up the wall. Adding to this is the fact that there seems to be no easy way for us simpleton’s to verify that the Regulator/Rectifier is good or faulty. This primer goes along that line, as does the Yamaha Service Manual. The Service Manual leaves some to be desired and I hope I’ve explained it a bit further so you can successfully troubleshoot your charging circuit.
RoadStarMagazine.com is proud to announce its first Road Test of a product designed specifically with the Yamaha Road Star in mind. As promised just over a week ago, we have the review of The Buckster Oil Cooler that was supplied to us by none other than Buck of the Road Star Riders Forum. Be sure to check it out because for peace of mind alone this little number is a winner!
Our first vendor created Serious Custom has been posted! Ron “Hacker” Davis is the man responsible for “Hybrid Theory”, a custom Road Star that has had over 80 hours of sanding and polishing dedicated to the engine alone! Hacker is behind a lot of custom paint jobs out there, so you will be sure to see more from this man, but for now, get yourself over to this link to check out Hackers Custom Cycles “Hybrid Theory”.
Today we have our first Custom Paint showcase featuring an immaculate Road Star owned by Al Soares. The debate will always rage about what color is fastest, but you have to admit, the red on this baby just makes it look like it would go at light speed. While the fenders might look like a stock paint job, they most certainly aren’t. The best part is Al has done most of the work himself, so is the man a genius or what? Get yourself over to this page to see more pictures of Al’s ride.
Well I finally got sick of the headlight rattle last week because for me it is too noticeable at 100kmh in 5th gear which is cruising speed for me. It also rattles at a certain RPM in all other gears to which was annoying. At a guess I would say somewhere around the 1500 to 2000 rpm mark but I can’t be sure. I know some of you have had luck with wrapping the wires inside the headlight with various things but my wires are already enclosed in rubber, so this is what I did.
RoadStarMagazine.com accepts no responsibility for the accuracy of these Garage Tips and they are only provided as a resource reference. Any type of modification or service work on your Road Star should always be performed by a professional mechanic. If performed incorrectly, some of these Garage Tips may endanger the safety of you and others on your Road Star and possibly invalidate your manufacturers warranty. The majority of these Garage Tips are not official manufacturers instructions and have been accumulated by Road Star enthusiasts from around the world.
By Toasty aka AussieGlenn
I have had the headlight apart once before and noticed the metal lips that protrude from the main housing and was thinking maybe I could get some rubber and stick it along those areas and deaden the sound. I actually bought some rubber that had a back part that peeled off so it was self adhesive. I didn’t want any problems getting the headlight back on so I got the thinnest I could find which was 1.6cm (about 1/2 an inch).
When I got home I wanted to see if I could get the headlight to rattle without actually having to ride the bike somewhere so I wasn’t pulling it apart and putting it back together and saddling up continuously if it didn’t work. Sure enough if I stood beside the bike and very slowly applied the throttle I could get the headlight to rattle… Not only that I could get it to SHAKE RATTLE AND ROLL!! Geesh, have any of you guys done this What happens at around the 1500 to 2000 rpm mark is the headlight starts whipping back and forth in it’s mount like crazy! No wonder this bastard rattles! Under or over that mark and the headlight smoothes out, but you get it at that right point and the headlight becomes a blur!
So any ways I pulled the headlight apart and placed the self adhesive rubber on the metal bits that stick out from the main headlight housing and put it all back together. No good, DAMMIT! So I start trying to think logically about the problem (me logical, now THAT’S a laugh).
The headlight only has two bolts that hold the front headlight onto the actual housing. These bolts are at 4 and 8 o’clock. There is no bolt at 12 o’clock though. From the riding position the headlight whips up and done as if it was nodding. So I am thinking it has to be at the top of the headlight where there is no bolt.
After having another look at the housing I notice at the top there are two metal almost hook like things coming out from it that the headlight would hook over to go into position (have a look and you will see what I mean) Now these didn’t look like they would fit all that snugly and I thought this could be where the rattle was coming from as the headlight does it’s boogie.
I got some more of the rubber and squashed it down into the two metal lips and put the headlight back on. No more rattle for Glenn!! I have since done about 150 miles and it has not returned so this MAY have done it. No doubt the rubber will compress with time so I might look at something thicker at a later date but this will do for now.
My main concern now is that the headlight is still vibrating like crazy in that small window of RPMS. It concerns me because of the cruising speed, even though it doesn’t rattle any more it is still shaking and that can’t be good. What we need is someone to fabricate a bracket to strengthen it.
But anyway, there is what I did.
From: Big Dan (REACHFORSTAR)
There are several ways..I used cork. The 1/4 inch dot stick ons that you buy at the 5& 10 to put on the bottom of vases and stuff to protect furniture. Stick them on the rim they are adhesive and trim them even with the edge. I also put some bubble wrap around my wires. It worked.
“Big Dan” -‘StarRider’